While Carmel and I were living in Gussago, it took us less than two weeks to realize that Italy just wasn’t going to work for us. I couldn’t find a job, salaries were very low, and for her there weren’t many opportunities either. So we made the decision to go back to Australia. I already knew this might happen, and I was afraid of it even while we were still in Milan because if Italy didn’t work out, the only real alternative was returning to Australia.

But before leaving, we wanted Carmel to see a bit more of Italy, and I had always dreamed of exploring the south. May felt like the perfect month to do it: good weather and fewer tourists. So we planned a full loop around the country, starting and ending in Brescia, renting a car for 22 days a Jeep Renegade and staying in hotels and cheap accommodations along the way.

DAY 1 – Tuesday 06.05.2025 

( Night at: Altuberhof, Valle di Casies ) 

( Museo Castello del buon Consiglio, Trento ) 

We woke up at 7 a.m. for our appointment with the immigration lawyer at Freedom Immigration another step toward going back to Australia. After that, we grabbed a quick breakfast and caught the bus around 9 a.m. to Brescia. By 10 a.m. we had picked up our rental car with Europe car, then drove the short 20 minutes back to Gussago to finish packing.

We finally hit the road at noon, taking the regular roads instead of the highway on our way to Trento. We arrived around 3 p.m. and parked in an underground garage. Our first stop was Abacus Café for a coffee and a quick bathroom break, and then we visited the cathedral, a beautiful spot despite the gloomy weather. We also walked through Piazza Battisti, but it was cold and raining, so we didn’t stay long.

We headed back to the car and drove to our accommodation, checking in around 7 p.m. After a short walk around the area, we cooked some pasta and went to bed, exhausted from the day.

DAY 2 – Wednesday 07.05.2025

( Night at: Hotel Corno Bianco ) 

( Lake Braies, South Tyrol ) 

We woke up at 6 a.m., grabbed something to eat on the way, and I drove us to Lake Braies. It was very quiet, but also extremely cold. We took a few quick photos and then left.

We went back to our place, had breakfast, and checked out at 8:30. We passed by Lake Braies again, hoping the fog had lifted, but it looked the same, so we stayed only about fifteen minutes in the free parking area before continuing our drive to Cortina. We arrived around 11 a.m. It was very quiet there too, and still raining. We stopped at Conad to buy something to eat and an umbrella. Then we walked around the city for a bit and stopped for a coffee and a toilet break at Caffè Royal. We also took some pictures with the Cortina d’Ampezzo Olympic Rings due to the Olympic 2026.

Next we drove to St. John Church near the Santa Maddalena postcard viewpoint. By then it was pouring rain, so we just took a quick photo and continued our drive to the accommodation, where we checked in at 5:30 p.m. We were already pretty tired from the day.

Chiara called me later, and after that we went to sleep.

DAY 3 – Thursday 08.05.2025

( Night at: La valle dei Caprioli Village Bungalow Park )

( Galla Placidia Mausoleum, Ravenna ) 

We woke up at 6:40 a.m., had a buffet breakfast at the hotel, and then drove back to Trento around 8 a.m. We stopped at Sud Ferramenta, where they didn’t actually make a new key but just replaced the battery. Since the weather was sunny, we took the opportunity to visit the castle gardens in the city, which was much nicer without rain.

At 11:30 a.m. we continued driving south toward Ravenna, taking the regular roads instead of the highway. We arrived around 4 p.m. we stopped to grab some focaccia at Forno Pasticceria Argnani. Afterwards, we visited the Tomb of Dante, which is free to enter.

At 5 p.m. we bought tickets to visit the Basilica di San Vitale, the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, and the Basilica di Sant’Apollinare Nuovo. They were all beautiful, and I wished we had more time, but unfortunately they were about to close so we visited them quickly.

Afterward, we continued driving until we arrived at our accommodation at 8 p.m. We checked in, took a quick shower, and went straight to bed after a long day.

DAY 4 – Friday 09.05.2025 

( Night at: Montanari Agrivillage, Nari ) 

( Pizza della Libertà, San Marino ) 

We woke up at 6:30 a.m., got ready, checked out, and drove to San Marino, arriving around 8:30 a.m. We parked and took the elevators up to the city. Luckily, it was very quiet, so we went straight to the main square to take some photos and enjoy the views. Then we had breakfast at Caffè Titano. We also visited the Guaita Tower, though only from the outside.

At 11:30 a.m. we left and drove to Perugia, arriving around 2 p.m. We were looking for a bathroom and were lucky to find a public one. After that, we had a quick lunch at Pizzeria Oberdan and explored a bit, especially the beautiful Fontana Maggiore.

Next, we drove to Assisi and arrived at 4 p.m. We left the car at the cemetery and walked to the Papal Basilica of Saint Francis, which I found very interesting and enjoyable. Afterwards, we treated ourselves to ice cream at Ristorante Bar San Francesco and continued our journey.

By 6:30 p.m., we arrived in Spello. We explored the town, which had a very relaxed, charming vibe. The flower-lined street Via Borgo Sisto was particularly cute. On our way back to the car, we stopped to grab same sandwiches for dinner at Alimentari Panini e Crescia and had a crescia with porchetta. Then we drove to our accommodation, arriving around 9:30 p.m., and went straight to sleep after a long day.

DAY 5 – Saturday 10.05.2025

( Night at: B&B Vatican’s Key, Roma ) 

( Marmore Falls, Terni ) 

We woke up at 6:30 a.m., had a quick breakfast in the bedroom, and checked out. We left the house at 8 a.m. and arrived at the Marmore Falls at 9:20 a.m., where we already had tickets that we had bought online. Once inside, we followed the long trail to see the falls from above. It was a bit of a hike, but completely worth it. At first it was very quiet, though it got busier later.

Outside the falls, a food truck was selling panini with porchetta, so we grabbed one for lunch. By 12 p.m., we left the Marmore Falls and continued our drive.

We arrived in Calcata Vecchia at 1:40 p.m., a charming and completely unexpected village that I absolutely loved. We walked around and took a few pictures before continuing our drive, trying to reach Rome before it got too late.

By 4:30 p.m., we arrived in Rome and parked in the underground car park near Villa Borghese. From there, we took an Uber to our accommodation. In the evening, we went out for dinner to try the carbonara at Osteria Ar 65, then walked back and went straight to sleep.

DAY 6 – Sunday 11.05.2025

( Night at: B&B Vatican’s Key, Roma )

( Colosseum, Roma ) 

We woke up at 6 a.m., had breakfast at the hotel, and then took the underground to the meeting point near the Colosseum for our 8:30 a.m. tour of the Colosseum and Roman Forum with Crown Tours that we booked in advance. The three-hour tour was incredible. Even though it was a bit cloudy at first, the guide made the history come alive, and the weather improved later on.

After the tour, we grabbed a quick lunch at La Prezzemolina, taking some pizza to go and eating it in the street. Then we walked to the Quirinale and made our way down to the Trevi Fountain which it was unexpectedly packed. 

At 2:30 p.m., we joined a free walking tour at the Altar of the Fatherland. We learned so much about the city and visited the Church of Saint Ignatius along the way.

We lost the tour at the Church of Saint Ignatius, but from there we walked back toward the Colosseum to take a few photos in the sunshine. We continued to Tiber Island and strolled along the river through Trastevere. On the way back up, we saw Castel Sant’Angelo before stopping for dinner at Pastasciutta. Exhausted from the full day, we returned to the hotel and went straight to sleep.

DAY 7- Monday 12.05.2025

( Night at: Trulli Beauty Pinnacolo, Locorotondo )

( Sixteen Chapel, Vatican Museums ) 

We woke up at 7 a.m. and headed to the Vatican for our 8:30 a.m. entry. We had originally booked a Spanish guided tour, but we decided to explore on our own instead, which turned out to be better and allowed us to move through the museums faster due to the hotel check out. 

After going back to the hotel and checking out at 10 a.m., we took all our luggage and walked to St. Peter’s Square again to take a few photos. At 11:30 a.m., we ordered an Uber to the car park to proceed our road trip. We left Rome around 12:15 p.m. and drove south.

We arrived in Pogliano a Mare at 7 p.m., just in time to watch a beautiful sunset. After that, we continued to our accommodation for the night, staying in the iconic trulli house. We arrived around 8:15 p.m. and settled in for the evening and we cooked pasta for dinner.

DAY 8 – Tuesday 13.05.2025

( Night at: Masseria Capece bed & breakfast )

( Trullo house style in Alberobello, Puglia ) 

We woke up at 6:30 a.m. and took a few photos before leaving the property, as the trullo was so charming. We departed around 8:30 a.m. and made our first stop in Locorotondo, a quiet and picturesque village in the early morning. Next, we visited Alberobello, a place I had always wanted to see, and it lived up to every expectation.

After that, we returned to Pogliano a Mare, and seeing it during the day made it even more beautiful. We spent some time relaxing at a beach near Monopoli, specifically Paradise Beach, and explored the nearby caves, which were stunning and very different from anything else we had seen on this road trip. For lunch, we grabbed some focaccia at Granum Bakery Bistrot.

Later, we drove to Ostuni for a quick visit, which was also very beautiful, before continuing to our next accommodation. On the way, we stopped at the Cave of Poetry hoping to catch the sunset, but clouds had rolled in. We finally arrived at the property around 8 p.m. and settled in for the evening.

DAY 9 – Wednesday 14.05.2025

( Night at: Sea Beach Home, Torre Lapillo )

( Cave of poetry, Puglia ) 

We woke up around 7 a.m. and left the accommodation at 9 a.m. Our first stop was the Grotta della Poesia, and in the morning the light was stunning compared to the night before. We absolutely loved it. Afterward, we spent some time at a nearby beach, Baia d’Oriente.

Next, we visited Otranto and explored the castle from the outside before heading to Spiaggia Pesculose. Unfortunately, it was cloudy, but we still enjoyed lunch with Puccia Salentina at Boteguita Beach Pub.

After that, we stopped in Gallipoli for an aperitif at Caffè del Molo and treated ourselves to a granita at a pop-up shop. We then drove to Punta Prosciutto, but the clouds had returned, so we made a quick stop at Conad to pick up some fruit before checking into our accommodation. Later, we walked to a nearby beach to watch the sunset and relax.

In the evening, we organized everything for the next leg of our trip and booked a flight to China.

DAY 10 – Thursday 15.05.2025

( Night at: Locanda di Eolo, Potenza )

( Water at Punta Prosciutto, Puglia ) 

We woke up at 7 a.m. and had breakfast at Bar Kennedy, provided by our accommodation. Afterwards, we spent some time relaxing at the beach in Punta Prosciutto, though unfortunately it was cloudy.

We then bought some fresh fruit from a street-side truck and, on our way to Matera, stopped for a typical Pugliese lunch before leaving the region. We ate at Trattoria Café da Maometto at 12:30 p.m., sampling many different dishes for a very reasonable price, and everything was delicious.

When we arrived in Matera, it was pouring rain, so we only managed a quick photo from the car at the panoramic viewpoint before continuing to our accommodation in Potenza. Once there, we checked in and went straight to sleep.

DAY 11 – Friday 16.05.2025

( Night at: Belvedere, Procida )

( Reggia di Caserta, Campagna ) 

We woke up at 6 a.m., packed the car, and enjoyed a very good breakfast before leaving for Caserta. The drive was beautiful, and we arrived at the Reggia di Caserta around 11 a.m. I had always wanted to visit this palace, having studied it many times in school, and exploring it along with its gardens until 3 p.m. was truly a highlight.

From there, we drove to Pozzuoli, where we had reserved a car park for the night, and grabbed some pizza at Sapori Flegrei. At 4:40 p.m., we took the ferry to Procida without any prior booking, and everything went smoothly. We arrived at our accommodation by 6 p.m.

The host was very friendly and even offered us a bottle of homemade limoncello to try, which was a lovely touch. Later, we walked to the nearby black sand beach to watch the sunset, which was stunning. After a long day, we returned to the accommodation and went straight to sleep.

DAY 12 – Saturday 17.05.2025

( Night at: Il girasole Terzuolo, Manciano)

( Belvedere di Terra Murata, Procida ) 

We woke up at 7 a.m. and took some photos at Marina Chiaiolella before breakfast, which was at 8 a.m. After breakfast, we packed and went to visit the Belvedere di Terra Murata. The view from there was absolutely stunning, like a postcard, offering the best panorama of the city.

We left Procida on the 10:40 a.m. ferry to Pozzuoli, which we had already booked, and grabbed pizza at Sapori Flegrei, the same place we had visited the day before. At 11:45 a.m., we left the parking and took the highway toward Saturnia.

We arrived at our accommodation around 5 p.m., relaxed, and took a few photos of the surroundings. We had planned to go out for a Fiorentina steak, but everywhere was fully booked, so we stayed in and went to sleep early to rest for the next day.

DAY 13 – Sunday 18.05.2025

( Night at: Tenuta Casa Bianca, Murlo ) 

( Terme di Saturnia, Grosseto )

We woke up very early at 5:30 a.m. to catch the perfect light for photos in Saturnia. Visiting the Saturnia Cascate del Mulino was incredible. The waterfalls were stunning, and although we didn’t swim because the water was very cold, we flew the drone and captured some amazing photos and videos. Afterwards, we returned to the hotel to relax.

Breakfast was at 8 a.m., and by 9:30 a.m., we headed to the Parco Termale. We spent a couple of hours there, enjoying some spa time and unwinding before continuing with our itinerary.

Afterward, we drove to Montepulciano and explored the village quickly, focusing mainly on the main square. Then we headed to Pienza, which was crowded with tourists, and stopped for an ice cream at Gelateria Artigianale.

Next, we visited the Chapel of Vitaleta and then made our way to the Gladiator spot for a few photos. It was a bit tricky to find, but we managed to arrive just before sunset.

We had also planned to stop at the Poggio Covoli farmhouse to take photos of its beautiful cypress-lined entrance, but it was very busy, so we decided to skip it.

Finally, we drove to our accommodation for the night. It ended up being a long drive due to the small roads, and we arrived around 9:30 p.m. After such a long day, we went straight to sleep, completely exhausted.

DAY 14 – Monday 19.05.2025

( Night: Gatto Bianco Tizzauli, Montespertoli ) 

( Wine testing at Castello Monterinaldi, Siena )

We had breakfast at 8:30 a.m., then took a few quick photos around the accommodation. We decided to return to Val d’Orcia to visit Agriturismo Baccoleno, with its iconic line of cypresses, since last night we hadn’t managed to get a good shot due to the crowds.

On the way, we stopped at the Coop in Aciano to buy some hair color for Carmel and a baguette for lunch. I also called ahead to arrange a wine tasting, but the earliest available slot was before 3:30 p.m. So after taking the photos with the cypresses, we went straight to Castello Monterinaldi winery to do the first wine testing.

Our second wine tasting was at Azienda Savignola. Both tastings were excellent, and we loved them completely. By then, it was getting late to visit any more wineries, so we headed straight to our accommodation. We checked in around 7:30 p.m., colored Carmel’s hair, took a shower, and went straight to sleep.

DAY 15 – Tuesday 20.05.2025

( Night at: Florentia Hotel, Viareggio ) 

( Fiorentina steak, Tuscany )

We woke up at 7 a.m., got ready, checked out, and drove to Antinori nel Chianti Classico. We didn’t do a wine tasting, but we explored the estate and its beautiful surroundings, although it was unfortunately raining.

After a drive of less than an hour, we arrived in Florence. We parked in a video-surveilled car park for safety and walked to the city center. We stopped at Bar Vivoli so Carmel could try an affogato for the first time, then explored a bit despite the heavy rain. For lunch, we went to Ino’s Panino and later took some photos at the Duomo, even with the gray weather. We also did some window shopping at wine shops, trying the iconic experience of buying a glass of wine by the window, which was really fun.

At 3 p.m., we drove about an hour to Pisa. It was pouring rain, and the Giro d’Italia was happening at the same time. Only Carmel got out of the car to quickly see the Leaning Tower before we continued to Viareggio, where our accommodation was located. We arrived around 6:30 p.m., checked in, got ready, and went out for a proper Fiorentina steak dinner at Trattoria Il Fiaschetto which it was amazing. Afterward, we returned to the hotel and went straight to sleep.

DAY 16 – Wednesday 21.05.2025

( Night at: Hotel Residence Moneglia ) 

( View of Riomaggiore, Liguria ) 

We woke up at 7 a.m., got dressed, had breakfast at the hotel, and then checked out to visit Forte dei Marmi. It was a lovely morning, and we spent some time by the beach at the molo before walking around the village, which was wonderfully quiet at that hour.

At 10:30 a.m., we drove onto the highway heading toward Moneglia. We arrived just before lunchtime, and since the room was ready, we checked in quickly. Afterward, we picked up some focaccia at Panificio La Spiga di Levante.

At 11:51 a.m., we took the train to Manarola, where we had lunch with the pizza that we bought before and relaxed a bit, despite the crowds of tourists. Next, we visited Riomaggiore, enjoying some ice cream and a granita, and then continued by train to Vernazza. The train really is the easiest way to get around the Cinque Terre. In Vernazza, we relaxed, watched the fishermen, and took some photos. By 7 p.m., we were back at our accommodation, very tired from the day.

We cooked some pasta, enjoyed the sunset and dinner from the balcony, and went to sleep after a full and beautiful day.

DAT 17 – Thursday 22.05.2025

( Night at: Hotel Residence Moneglia ) 

We woke up at 8 a.m., and since it was raining, we stayed in to organize all our things and pack clothes to leave at my mum’s house. Later, we went out around Moneglia, picking up a few items at the supermarket and grabbing some focaccia at Panetteria Il Vecchio Mulino.

For lunch, we had pasta at home. Around noon, I took care of some tasks for the immigration lawyer and also organized plans for our upcoming trip to China.

In the evening, we relaxed by watching an episode of I Cesaroni and went to sleep. Honestly, a day without traveling was much needed we were very tired and it felt good to rest.

DAY 18 – Friday 23.05.2025

( Night at: Subiet B&B, Moncalvo )

( Cantina Hic et Nunc, Vignale Monferrato ) 

We woke up at 6:30 a.m., packed everything, and left at 8 a.m., driving to Portofino. Once there, we explored the town and hiked up to the Brown Castle, enjoying the views along the way. We left around 12 p.m.

On the way, we stopped in Rapallo to grab some focaccia from a small bakery we spotted while driving. Afterwards, we continued to our accommodation in Moncalvo, arriving around 3 p.m. We checked in, freshened up, and then went to explore Moncalvo.

At 5 p.m., we had a wine tasting at Hic et, which was excellent definitely one of my favorites. We sampled a variety of local wines and really enjoyed the experience. After three hours of drinking, we went for dinner at Armonia Treville, where we indulged in an eight-course tasting menu. After such a full and delicious day and a bit tipsy from the wine testing, we returned to the accommodation and went straight to sleep.

DAY 19 – Saturday 24.05.2025

( Night at: Hotel Ristornate la Sorgente, Plesio ) 

( Lunch at my mum’s house, Cereseto ) 

We woke up at 7:30 a.m., got ready, had breakfast at the accommodation, and then drove with Carmel to Vercelli to the tribunal to get the police check for my Australian visa. After that, we headed to Casale, where I had a dentist appointment at 11 a.m. On the way back to Moncalvo, we also washed the car.

I left Carmel at the accommodation and went to my mum’s house for lunch at 1:30 p.m., where I picked up some clothes for our upcoming trip to China and items I’ll need to move back to Australia, as well as Carmel’s clothes that had been left there after Africa. After saying goodbye to my mum and my aunties Sandra and Giovanna, I drove back to the accommodation to pick up Carmel. We took a few photos nearby in the vineyard with the car before hitting the highway in Casale to drive to Lake Como.

Due to traffic, we arrived around 8 p.m., checked in, and went straight to sleep after a long day of errands and travel.

DAY 20 – Sunday 25.05.2025

( Night at: Stanza ai Colli, Bergamo ) 

( Menaggio, Lake Como ) 

We woke up at 7 a.m., got ready, packed the car, and had a quick breakfast at 8 a.m. Then we headed down to Menaggio, where we parked at the cemetery and took the boat to Bellagio at 9:15 a.m. without prior reservation. We walked around the town, took a few photos, and grabbed pizza at Bellavita for lunch, which was a bit expensive and very touristy.

We then took the ferry back to Menaggio, using our return ticket, and drove to Villa Balbianello to visit the gardens. Unfortunately, we hadn’t booked online, and tickets were sold out for the day. So we visited Villa Carlotta instead, exploring it fairly quickly due to the strict schedule of the day. 

At 5 p.m., we drove to Como to meet Perla and Vincenzo for an aperitif by the lake. Traffic was heavy, and it took us about an hour and a half to get there. After the aperitif we walked and talked along the Lungolago Viale Geno and around the Piazzetta before heading back to the car park to say goodbye.

Carmel and I then drove to our next accommodation near Bergamo, arriving at 10 p.m. After such a long day, we went straight to sleep.

DAY 21  – Monday 26.05.2025

( Night at: Agriturismo Mulino Bianco, Lonato del Garda ) 

( Fresh limonata in Sirmione, Garda Lake ) 

We woke up at 7 a.m., got ready, and by 9 a.m. we parked in Bergamo Alta to explore the city. We visited the Bergamo Cathedral and then Piazza Vecchia, taking a few photos along the way. For lunch, we stopped at Il Fornaio to grab something quick.

Afterward, we drove about half an hour to Lake Iseo to relax and enjoy the scenery. We had already visited Lake Iseo on a day trip from Gussago, but back then the weather had been cloudy, so it was nice to see it in better conditions. Next, we continued to Sirmione on Lake Garda, which was absolutely beautiful. Unfortunately, since it was Monday, the Sirmione Castle was closed, so we just walked around the town and enjoyed a fresh lemonade.

Finally, we headed to Desenzano del Garda, where we stopped for an aperitif at the Lemon Tree Bar our last aperitif in Italy. Around 7:30 p.m., we drove to our accommodation for the night. We waited a bit for the host to check us in while arranging our luggage and belongings, then went to sleep after a long day.

DAY 22 – Tuesday 27.05.2025

( Night at: Aer Hotel Malpensa, Oleggio ) 

We woke up at 8 a.m., packed everything, and checked out. The host kindly offered Carmel a coffee before we left. We then stopped at Aldi to buy the last few things we needed, filled up the car with gasoline, and by 10 a.m. we were back in Brescia to return the car.

After dropping off our bags in the lockers so we could walk around freely, we had breakfast at Bar San Carlo and took care of a few tasks for our upcoming trip to China. At 12 p.m., we went to La Maison d’Or for sushi, one last all-you-can-eat sushi before leaving Italy. Later, at 2:28 p.m., we caught the train to Milano Malpensa T1, arriving at 4:46 p.m. We waited for the hotel shuttle, which took us to the hotel. Once there, we checked in and spent the rest of the day organizing, booking things for our trip to China, and getting everything ready for the following morning to leave the county.